MATERIALS FOR THE TEXTILES OF AFRICA

Raw materials in Africa cover cotton, silk, wool, goats hair, and some non spun natural fibers like raffia and bast, which derives from the plant stem.

Since the yarn produced from hand spinning is thick and difficult to use, there is an interesting tradition of unraveling cloth from Europe to work with.  Local silk yarn lacks shine, though textiles like the Sanyan are highly prized. Nowadays, lurex and rayon have replaced silk yarn to a great degree.  

DYEING FOR THE TEXTILES OF AFRICA

Though much African cloth is woven from natural undyed fibers, dyeing is widespread all over Africa. Natural dyes are made from various sources: red from camwood, yellow from brimstone bark, and indigo from Tinto. 

Resist dyeing is practiced widely in Africa by sewing sticks and stones to cloth before dyeing or applying starch paste through stencils. Mostly dyeing is done by either men or women. In Nigeria, only men undertake dyeing, and among the Yoruba, only women.

The mud cloths of the Bamna use a unique dyeing technique not seen elsewhere.  Black mud dye is used on yellow dyed fabric, and the yellow is then discharged,  giving a white on a brownish background.  

SURFACE EMBELLISHMENTS ON THE TEXTILES OF AFRICA

Patchwork, appliqué, and embroidery are widely practiced throughout Africa. The embroidery of the Hausa of Nigeria and Cameroon is incredibly delicate.

The Kuba practice a cut-pile technique in which woven raffia is manipulated to create a soft pile, often combined with embroidery.  

PATTERN & COLORS FOR THE TEXTILES OF AFRICA

Stripes and checks are produced routinely on heddle looms, and more complex motifs are woven using extra heddles. Many motifs carry ritualistic meanings, such as combs and mirrors as talismans against evil, or knives as cutting envious glances.  

Barkcloth in red from Uganda.

Unlike western repeating patterns, African textiles often have unexpected elements like deliberate errors, possibly because of the Islamic stricture against perfection.  

Colors, too are deeply symbolic in African cultures, such as red being associated with mystical powers.  

WAX PRINTING ON THE TEXTILES OF AFRICA

I can’t speak of African textiles and leave out wax prints, which are used widely for clothing in Africa.  Wax prints are based on a batik technique and serve as a way of communication between African women. For instance, a wax print carrying fan motifs would indicate that she is well off enough to afford a fan in her house.  

The Dutch company called Vlisco, produces fantastic wax prints that are used not just in Africa but are a fashion statement throughout the world. 

While many scholars rue using machine-woven yarn and roller technology in recent years, it may have allowed Africa’s handloom weavers to produce more significant quantities and broader patterns.  A tradition is also a living tradition, which means that it will change, progress, and develop.  African hand made cloth has only benefited from this.